Care & Warranty

How to look after what we made you, and exactly what we will fix if we got it wrong.

Printed apparel and bags (DTF transfer)Tees, hoodies, sweatshirts, totes and caps printed in the design studio.

The design is printed onto film, powdered with a heat-activated adhesive, and pressed into the fabric. It sits on the surface of the garment as a thin, slightly flexible layer — it is bonded to the fibres, not soaked into them.

Do this

Give it 24 hours after it arrives before the first wash. The bond is finished at the press, but the garment has usually been folded warm, and a day flat lets it settle.
Turn the garment inside out before washing. This is the single most useful habit — it keeps the printed face off the drum and off zips and buttons.
Wash cold (30°C / 86°F or below) on a normal or gentle cycle, with a mild detergent.
Hang dry, or tumble dry on low. Heat is what kills a transfer, and a dryer on high is the hottest thing the print will ever meet after the press.
If it needs pressing, iron inside out. To press the front, put a sheet of baking parchment or a Teflon sheet over the design first and use low heat with no steam.

Never do this

Fabric softener. It leaves a waxy film that works its way under the edges of the print and lifts them.
Bleach or any oxygen/colour-safe bleach — it attacks the print and the garment dye together.
Hot washes and high-heat drying.
Ironing directly onto the design.
Dry cleaning — the solvents are harsher on the transfer than any home wash.

How long it lasts

Washed cold and dried low, a DTF print softens and relaxes into the fabric over time rather than failing suddenly, and normally outlives the garment it is on. What shortens it is heat and softener, not use.

Covered by the guarantee

Print that cracks, peels, flakes or lifts within the guarantee window under normal care.
Ink that is smeared, doubled, missing coverage, or the wrong colour against the design you confirmed.
A print pressed in the wrong place, at the wrong size, or crooked compared with your confirmed design.

Not covered

Cracking or lifting after a hot wash, a hot dryer, an iron on the print, or fabric softener.
Softness or a faint texture change with age — that is the transfer relaxing, not failing.
Fine detail that reproduced poorly from artwork you were warned was low resolution and chose to continue with.

Embroidered apparelCaps, polos, jackets, fleece and bags stitched on the embroidery machine.

The design is stitched into the garment with polyester thread on a multi-needle machine. There is no ink and nothing on the surface to wear off — the design is thread, held in the fabric, with a backing behind it that keeps the stitches from distorting.

Do this

Turn the garment inside out and fasten every zip, hook and strip of hook-and-loop before it goes in — hardware is what snags stitching, in your machine and in ours.
Wash cold on a gentle cycle with a mild detergent, with like garments rather than with towels or denim.
Hang dry where you can. If you tumble dry, use low: heat shrinks the fabric around stitching that does not shrink with it, and that is what makes an embroidered design pucker.
Press from the reverse side, face-down on a folded towel, so the stitches sink into the towel instead of being flattened.
If a thread end works loose, trim it flush with scissors.

Never do this

Pulling a loose thread. One pull travels through the fill and distorts a whole area of the design — cut it, never tug it.
Bleach, and stain removers applied straight onto the stitching.
Ironing directly onto the face of the design: it glazes the thread and flattens the raised texture that embroidery is for.
Hot water and high-heat drying, which cause the shrink-and-pucker failure above.
Stiff brushing or scrubbing at the stitches to clean a mark.

How long it lasts

Embroidery thread is polyester and colourfast — it does not fade or crack the way a print can, and stitching normally outlasts the garment. The backing behind a design (cut-away backing on knits) stays in the garment permanently by design; that stiffer patch on the inside is how the design keeps its shape, not a defect.

Covered by the guarantee

Stitches that unravel, pull out, or come loose within the guarantee window under normal care.
A design that arrives puckered, distorted, or with gaps and missing fill.
Wrong thread colours, wrong text, or stitching placed off the position you confirmed.
A needle hole, snag or pull in the garment caused by our machine.

Not covered

Damage from a snagged zip, hook-and-loop, or a thread that was pulled rather than trimmed.
Puckering that appears after a hot wash or a hot dryer.
Very fine detail or very small lettering that we flagged as too small to hold in stitches and you asked us to run anyway.

UV-printed hard goodsTumblers, bottles, mugs, acrylic and metal signs, awards, and other flat or cylindrical hard goods printed on the UV printer.

The ink is printed onto the outside of the item and cured instantly with UV light into a hard, slightly raised film. It is bonded to the surface, not fired into it like a glaze, and it is only ever on the exterior — it never touches what is inside a drinking vessel.

Do this

Hand wash only. Warm — not hot — water, a mild dish soap, and a soft cloth or the soft side of a sponge.
Rinse and dry it by hand rather than leaving it to sit wet.
Wipe a mark off gently as soon as you notice it; nothing here needs scrubbing.
Store drinkware upright with the lid off so the inside dries out.

Never do this

The dishwasher. This is the one that ruins tumblers: dishwasher detergent is strongly alkaline and the drying cycle is hot, and between them they will dull, crack and lift a UV print. A dishwasher cycle also breaks the vacuum seal on insulated drinkware, which is a separate, permanent failure.
The microwave for any insulated or stainless item — there is metal in the wall.
The freezer for insulated drinkware, for the same seal reason as the dishwasher.
Abrasive scourers, scouring powder, magic-eraser type pads, and steel wool.
Bleach, acetone, nail-polish remover, alcohol wipes and solvent cleaners.
Long soaks — do not leave a printed item submerged.

How long it lasts

A cured UV print is hard and scratch-resistant, but it is not scratch-proof: the places it wears first are the places that get rubbed, so a tumbler that rides in a gritty cup holder or on a carabiner will show it at those contact points before anywhere else. Hand-washed, it stays sharp.

Covered by the guarantee

Ink that flakes, lifts, chips or scratches off within the guarantee window under normal hand-washing.
Missing coverage, banding, a smear, or colours that are wrong against the design you confirmed.
A print positioned wrong, sized wrong, or crooked on the item.
A blank that arrives dented, cracked, leaking, or with a failed vacuum seal.

Not covered

Anything that has been through a dishwasher, a microwave, or a freezer.
Wear at a contact point on an item carried daily, or damage from being dropped.
Ink dulled by an abrasive pad or a solvent cleaner.

Laser-engraved and laser-cut itemsWood, acrylic, coated metal and leather pieces cut or engraved on the laser — signs, awards, tags, ornaments and inlays.

There is no ink involved at all. The laser removes or darkens the material itself, so the mark is a permanent change to the surface, and a cut edge is the material's own edge. That makes these the most durable items the shop makes, and also the ones most affected by how the raw material behaves.

Do this

Wipe clean with a dry or barely damp soft cloth, and dry it straight away.
Wood: keep it out of prolonged direct sun and out of steamy rooms. A wipe of furniture wax or food-safe mineral oil once or twice a year keeps it from drying out and lightening.
Acrylic: warm water with a drop of mild soap and a microfibre cloth, nothing else.
Coated metal: a dry microfibre cloth. The mark is the laser going through the coating, so anything that polishes the coating fades the mark with it.
Leather: wipe dry, and use a leather conditioner rather than soap.

Never do this

Water, full stop, for anything wooden — no soaking, no dishwasher, no running it under a tap.
Ammonia-based glass cleaner on acrylic. It crazes acrylic into a network of fine cracks and there is no way back from that.
Paper towels on acrylic — they are abrasive enough to leave a haze of fine scratches.
Metal polish, abrasive compounds and scouring pads on an engraved surface.
Leaving a wooden or acrylic piece somewhere it will bake, such as a car dashboard or a sunny windowsill.

How long it lasts

An engraving does not fade, wash off or wear away — it is the material. Two things are normal rather than faults: laser-cut wood and leather carry a faint smoky smell for the first weeks, which airs out, and a laser-cut wooden edge is slightly darker than the face, which is inherent to cutting with heat. Natural wood also has its own grain, knots and colour variation, and it will move a little with humidity over years.

Covered by the guarantee

A cut or engrave placed wrong, sized wrong, rotated, or off-centre against the proof you approved.
Incomplete cuts, cuts that did not go through, or an engrave with missing or skipped sections.
Scorching, burn-through or charring beyond the normal edge darkening described above.
A piece that arrives cracked, split or broken.

Not covered

Warping, splitting or lightening from water, direct sun, or a humid room.
Crazing on acrylic from ammonia glass cleaner, or scratching from an abrasive cloth.
Natural grain, knots and colour variation in real wood, and the normal edge darkening of a laser cut.
Detail we flagged as too fine for the kerf of the laser or for the material, which you asked us to run anyway.

The guarantee, in full

If an item arrives wrong, or a fault in how we made it shows up within 14 days of delivery, tell us and we will remake it or refund it at our cost. That is the same promise for a print, a stitch-out, an engrave and a cut — the method does not change it. The binding wording is in our Terms of Service, and where this page and the Terms disagree, the Terms are the ones that count.

The 14 days are measured from delivery, not from the day you ordered, so a slow shipment never eats into it. If an item is remade under the guarantee, the replacement starts a fresh window of its own from the day that one is delivered.

Not covered, on any method

Changing your mind about a design you approved. Every item is made for you specifically and cannot be resold, which is why the confirmation step shows you the design, its measured size and its placement before you buy.
Normal wear from real use, and accidental damage — a drop, a snag, a stain, a burn.
Care that the section above tells you to avoid, such as a dishwasher for a printed tumbler or a hot dryer for a printed or embroidered garment.
Artwork or detail we flagged as too low-resolution or too fine for the method, where you acknowledged the warning and asked us to proceed.

If something is wrong

Have your order number and the email address the order was placed under.
Go to the order tracking page and open the item you are reporting.
Say what went wrong and attach a photo — a photo is what lets us tell a production fault from shipping damage, and it usually settles the whole thing in one round.
A person reviews every request. Nothing is decided automatically, and you will hear back either way.

Track an order and report a problem. If the window has already closed, or you cannot find the order, get in touch anyway — message our team and a person will look at it.

← Back to Pack Haus · Terms of Service

Care & Warranty

How to look after what we made you, and exactly what we will fix if we got it wrong.

Printed apparel and bags (DTF transfer)Tees, hoodies, sweatshirts, totes and caps printed in the design studio.

Do this

Give it 24 hours after it arrives before the first wash. The bond is finished at the press, but the garment has usually been folded warm, and a day flat lets it settle.
Turn the garment inside out before washing. This is the single most useful habit — it keeps the printed face off the drum and off zips and buttons.
Wash cold (30°C / 86°F or below) on a normal or gentle cycle, with a mild detergent.
Hang dry, or tumble dry on low. Heat is what kills a transfer, and a dryer on high is the hottest thing the print will ever meet after the press.
If it needs pressing, iron inside out. To press the front, put a sheet of baking parchment or a Teflon sheet over the design first and use low heat with no steam.

Never do this

Fabric softener. It leaves a waxy film that works its way under the edges of the print and lifts them.
Bleach or any oxygen/colour-safe bleach — it attacks the print and the garment dye together.
Hot washes and high-heat drying.
Ironing directly onto the design.
Dry cleaning — the solvents are harsher on the transfer than any home wash.

How long it lasts

Covered by the guarantee

Print that cracks, peels, flakes or lifts within the guarantee window under normal care.
Ink that is smeared, doubled, missing coverage, or the wrong colour against the design you confirmed.
A print pressed in the wrong place, at the wrong size, or crooked compared with your confirmed design.

Not covered

Cracking or lifting after a hot wash, a hot dryer, an iron on the print, or fabric softener.
Softness or a faint texture change with age — that is the transfer relaxing, not failing.
Fine detail that reproduced poorly from artwork you were warned was low resolution and chose to continue with.

Embroidered apparelCaps, polos, jackets, fleece and bags stitched on the embroidery machine.

Do this

Turn the garment inside out and fasten every zip, hook and strip of hook-and-loop before it goes in — hardware is what snags stitching, in your machine and in ours.
Wash cold on a gentle cycle with a mild detergent, with like garments rather than with towels or denim.
Hang dry where you can. If you tumble dry, use low: heat shrinks the fabric around stitching that does not shrink with it, and that is what makes an embroidered design pucker.
Press from the reverse side, face-down on a folded towel, so the stitches sink into the towel instead of being flattened.
If a thread end works loose, trim it flush with scissors.

Never do this

Pulling a loose thread. One pull travels through the fill and distorts a whole area of the design — cut it, never tug it.
Bleach, and stain removers applied straight onto the stitching.
Ironing directly onto the face of the design: it glazes the thread and flattens the raised texture that embroidery is for.
Hot water and high-heat drying, which cause the shrink-and-pucker failure above.
Stiff brushing or scrubbing at the stitches to clean a mark.

How long it lasts

Covered by the guarantee

Stitches that unravel, pull out, or come loose within the guarantee window under normal care.
A design that arrives puckered, distorted, or with gaps and missing fill.
Wrong thread colours, wrong text, or stitching placed off the position you confirmed.
A needle hole, snag or pull in the garment caused by our machine.

Not covered

Damage from a snagged zip, hook-and-loop, or a thread that was pulled rather than trimmed.
Puckering that appears after a hot wash or a hot dryer.
Very fine detail or very small lettering that we flagged as too small to hold in stitches and you asked us to run anyway.

UV-printed hard goodsTumblers, bottles, mugs, acrylic and metal signs, awards, and other flat or cylindrical hard goods printed on the UV printer.

Do this

Hand wash only. Warm — not hot — water, a mild dish soap, and a soft cloth or the soft side of a sponge.
Rinse and dry it by hand rather than leaving it to sit wet.
Wipe a mark off gently as soon as you notice it; nothing here needs scrubbing.
Store drinkware upright with the lid off so the inside dries out.

Never do this

The dishwasher. This is the one that ruins tumblers: dishwasher detergent is strongly alkaline and the drying cycle is hot, and between them they will dull, crack and lift a UV print. A dishwasher cycle also breaks the vacuum seal on insulated drinkware, which is a separate, permanent failure.
The microwave for any insulated or stainless item — there is metal in the wall.
The freezer for insulated drinkware, for the same seal reason as the dishwasher.
Abrasive scourers, scouring powder, magic-eraser type pads, and steel wool.
Bleach, acetone, nail-polish remover, alcohol wipes and solvent cleaners.
Long soaks — do not leave a printed item submerged.

How long it lasts

Covered by the guarantee

Ink that flakes, lifts, chips or scratches off within the guarantee window under normal hand-washing.
Missing coverage, banding, a smear, or colours that are wrong against the design you confirmed.
A print positioned wrong, sized wrong, or crooked on the item.
A blank that arrives dented, cracked, leaking, or with a failed vacuum seal.

Not covered

Anything that has been through a dishwasher, a microwave, or a freezer.
Wear at a contact point on an item carried daily, or damage from being dropped.
Ink dulled by an abrasive pad or a solvent cleaner.

Laser-engraved and laser-cut itemsWood, acrylic, coated metal and leather pieces cut or engraved on the laser — signs, awards, tags, ornaments and inlays.

Do this

Wipe clean with a dry or barely damp soft cloth, and dry it straight away.
Wood: keep it out of prolonged direct sun and out of steamy rooms. A wipe of furniture wax or food-safe mineral oil once or twice a year keeps it from drying out and lightening.
Acrylic: warm water with a drop of mild soap and a microfibre cloth, nothing else.
Coated metal: a dry microfibre cloth. The mark is the laser going through the coating, so anything that polishes the coating fades the mark with it.
Leather: wipe dry, and use a leather conditioner rather than soap.

Never do this

Water, full stop, for anything wooden — no soaking, no dishwasher, no running it under a tap.
Ammonia-based glass cleaner on acrylic. It crazes acrylic into a network of fine cracks and there is no way back from that.
Paper towels on acrylic — they are abrasive enough to leave a haze of fine scratches.
Metal polish, abrasive compounds and scouring pads on an engraved surface.
Leaving a wooden or acrylic piece somewhere it will bake, such as a car dashboard or a sunny windowsill.

How long it lasts

Covered by the guarantee

A cut or engrave placed wrong, sized wrong, rotated, or off-centre against the proof you approved.
Incomplete cuts, cuts that did not go through, or an engrave with missing or skipped sections.
Scorching, burn-through or charring beyond the normal edge darkening described above.
A piece that arrives cracked, split or broken.

Not covered

Warping, splitting or lightening from water, direct sun, or a humid room.
Crazing on acrylic from ammonia glass cleaner, or scratching from an abrasive cloth.
Natural grain, knots and colour variation in real wood, and the normal edge darkening of a laser cut.
Detail we flagged as too fine for the kerf of the laser or for the material, which you asked us to run anyway.

The guarantee, in full

Not covered, on any method

Changing your mind about a design you approved. Every item is made for you specifically and cannot be resold, which is why the confirmation step shows you the design, its measured size and its placement before you buy.
Normal wear from real use, and accidental damage — a drop, a snag, a stain, a burn.
Care that the section above tells you to avoid, such as a dishwasher for a printed tumbler or a hot dryer for a printed or embroidered garment.
Artwork or detail we flagged as too low-resolution or too fine for the method, where you acknowledged the warning and asked us to proceed.

If something is wrong

Have your order number and the email address the order was placed under.
Go to the order tracking page and open the item you are reporting.
Say what went wrong and attach a photo — a photo is what lets us tell a production fault from shipping damage, and it usually settles the whole thing in one round.
A person reviews every request. Nothing is decided automatically, and you will hear back either way.

Track an order and report a problem. If the window has already closed, or you cannot find the order, get in touch anyway — message our team and a person will look at it.